An Impulsive Excursion to Ceará, the Northeastern of Brasil

I had recently heard of a new windsurfing location reachable only by mikes of 4x4 travel in a remote northeastern area of Brasil called Jericoacoara. Having always enjoyed Brasil travel and not having been there in several years, I convinced a friend that we should experiment a little. So we got plane tickets to Fortaleza and set out to explore.

Tuesday Jan. 27, 04

Arrived in Fortaleza (3 million people) on schedule without incident. LA to São Paulo flight was 12 hours and not too bad on Varig Airlines. Good seat room and two mediocre meals on an MD11 (that's what used to be a DC-10 jumbo jet). Raining considerably in Fortaleza when we arrived. We drove up the beach to the North about 10 miles. Things look pretty shabby in the rain, though there are lots of nice high rise condominiums near downtown at Beria Mar, the beach front street of our hotel. Went to a very modern 6 - 8 level world-class mall to get Mike's cell phone equipped with a chip for Brasil. To my surprise we succeeded. Had dinner at a seafood restaurant called Tia Nair. Very large piece of what started out to be excellent fish, but it was over cooked to dryness.

Wednesday Jan. 28,

The Quality Fortaleza is a modern very clean neat hotel right on the water. Has an internet room at reasonable price $R6/hr = $6/2.8, and a pool on the roof at the 23rd floor that is about as large as two Jacuzzis - who wants a pool when you are on the earth's warmest ocean anyway. The money $R  $2.8 (reais, pronunced "hey-els"). Or the singular, real (hey-el), king. Breakfast is in a too small closed cocoon. A second floor low-ceiling room with only head high windows that are sealed glass. i.e., they cannot be opened anywhere - came to the tropics to be exposed to it but this is isolating one from it. Food is OK several kinds of juice, but the orange is sour and others are unusual things to me, despite several prior trips to Brasil. Weird things that taste watery and bitter! Fruit, and cereal selection was good and hot food is appealing. We had an almost sunny day and as the afternoon wore on it seemed there might be some wind. We went cruising toward the south to Praia do Futuro (Beach of the Future) and beyond. Eventually spotted some kites on the water and we wondered over to that section of beach to see what we could learn. Couple guys from Austria were there with windsurfers, but there was not enough wind for their sport. They were staying at Fortaliza Praia Hotel and came with a rather large group of kiters and windsurfers. The group was split between two hotels, the Fortaliza Praia, maybe 5 - 8 km south of town, and which seems to cater to windsurfers and another hotel about 50 km or so down the beach. We did not get to the latter. We seem to be learning that rental gear is close to non-existent anywhere near Fortaleza. One shop along Beria Mar a km north of our hotel rents some pretty crumbly gear at very high prices, about $17/hour.

The Fortaleza Praia is at Av Zezé Diogo, (0055)85 262 357; https://fortalezapraiahotel.com.br fphoterl@bol.com.br . We walked about 1/2 mile to dinner tonight to a place called Pitu (Shrimp) something close to the Tia Nair. Had an excellent Argentina style beef called "Picanha," but didn't know how to tell them not to cook it too much (medium rare), Later learned to ask for "alta," that is not cooked down so thin. By the end of dinner it was raining extremely hard, and the hard rain continued well into Thursday morning. As we came home from our hard night's work Thursday morning, Mike sped through an 18 inch water puddle at high speed, and ripped a plastic hub cap (wheel cover), so that it was slapping the fender on each revolution. He is a worse driver than two Brasilians. I go out in the rain, and in a pond, and ripped the fragmented cover off so it would stop hitting the fender. This will probably be a $100 problem when we try to turn in the rental car.

Thursday Jan. 29,

Just learning to live here is an adventure and a challenge. After trying about 10 ATMs about 22 times we finally found by going into the Bank do Brasil and using the one and only "international ATM" we were finally able to get some money. In California when we tile a bathroom we consider each square foot and usually don't tile all the way to the ceiling, here in Brasil they routinely tile every square inch of the exterior of a 25 story condominium building. Found a great area to eat tonight a couple blocks farther north around the pier at Ponte dos Ingleses at the corner of Rua dos Trabajaras and Rua dos Tremembés (laborers and train men?). Filet mignon cooked to perfection at La Maria, 100 W dos Tremendes.

Friday, Jan. 30, 04

Today we have some serious sunshine and we drove up to Cumbuco Beach, about 30 km north going through Icarai, Tabuca and a couple other little villages along the way. Couple guys were kiteing and a couple windsurfers. Drifting around caseing the place, we stumbled upon Jorges, a little 9 year old, who took us to a private home of a German guy, Adolf Manfred Spuck, who rents a little windsurf gear. Probably tomorrow we will go up there and rent from him. Jorges also took us to some sand dunes and a lake where folks sled and sometimes "snow board" down the dunes into the lake. Michael did it.

Finished the day at the same restaurant area as yesterday and had another great cut of steak at a Portuguese place called Tasca do Marques on 429 Riu dos Trabajaras. When you get to the right restaurants, the beef here is far superior to what you get many places in the US - and very low cost.

We expect to rent gear tomorrow from Manfred !! $R120/day; $R90/half day.

Saturday, Jan. 31, 04

Awakened to bright sunshine this morning, but by breakfast time it is clouding over! The wind that Manfred promised yesterday never appeared.

We checked the local car rental www.localiza.com today that Foder's says is better than the brands, but we found them somewhat higher ($R525/wk) than the Avis car we have. Met someone that Michael's wife directed us to for lunch, Antonio, and had an enjoyable visit and learned a lot about Fortaleza from a local. He married 3 months ago and invited us to a celebration of this tomorrow. Took us around to a couple very nice near-ocean front condominiums he owns and rents. There are hundreds of condominiums and generally quite nice in high rise buildings of 18 to 25 stories. The buildings here have character with varying shapes and colors, unlike the rectangular boxes we see in the US. Reminds me of the Gold Coast of Australia. However, many are very narrow and tall and the base is sometimes smaller than the building, giving the impression they could topple - and one did south of Rio about 5 years ago. Lucky there's no earthquakes here.

Sunday, Feb. 1, 04

Same early sunshine followed by partly cloudy and no wind as yesterday. We went to Antonio's & Eliene Reale marriage celebration at his Vila near the ocean about 25 km south of Fortaleza. A very nice clean beach area with beautiful pristine sand dunes. The area with a collection of Vilas and a huge water park is called Puerto das Dundas. Antonio's friend Walter P that we met their says that swimming at the beach is quite dangerous as once you swim out past the waves the water action doesn't allow you to swim back - sounds totally unusual to me so maybe will get a chance to check it out more. The party was lots of fun as there were three or four interesting locals (Italians all) who spoke bits of English.

Monday Feb. 2, 04

Our hotel, Quality Fortaleza faces the ocean to the northeast Praia Meireles. To the left, northwest are Diarios, Ideal, Iracema, Pontes dos Ingleses, Formosa, Oitao Preto, etc in the immediate neighborhood. The great restaurants we have found are mostly around Iracema. To the right, south east are the beaches Nautico, Jurema, Mucuripe, Iate, then a small port area at a land head coming to a point where the shoreline turns more south. Ceasar Park is a brisk 30 minute from us and about 2/3 of the way to the point. Ceasar Park and Tropical aare the 5 star hotels in Brasil. Past the point is Praia do Futuro stretching for a long distance, maybe 8 - 10 miles, before reaching Puerto das Dundas. This afternoon we stopped at a used hub cap (wheel cover) store and took care of our $100 problem for $R10 = $3.55, labor included. Don't know how long that will last though, because it's raining like hell again.

Tuesday Feb. 3, 04

This morning we are taking Michael to the airport, as he is going on to Manaus, Foz do Iguasu, Rio, São Paulo before going home. Antoino went along and helped me learn how to turn in the rental car next week and showed me the corner where you just go right through even if the light is red to avoid robbers, to ber sure this gave me comfort to know that I would be driving through that light alone at 4 am a week hence when I leave. He also pointed out the Motel Tanya telling me it is "only for love - no sleep.". This motel is not unique in Fortaleza. Both Antonio and Walter P. are in the business of renting condos. Antonio showed me where Walter has his "office" on the beach just one block south of the Quality in front of Hotel Luzieros, and after he left, I went by and visited with Walter and some non-English speaking Italian friends/colleagues. I seems sunny and breezy this afternoon, so we might think windsurfing is in the near future, but I went by Bio Board, Av. Beria Mar, 914 - Praia de Iracema late this afternoon and Julio says "no-way," so it doesn't look good now. Up to now this is the only place we have found to rent gear in Fortaleza and it's expensive $R45/hr = $16/hr. Their web site www.bioboard.com.br. Had a moderate swim in the 85ºF ocean and run on the beach this evening to get some exercise and work my shoulder.

Walked to dinner, and wouldn't you know it - started raining hard just like last Wednesday - I came home in a taxi rather than get soaked again. Food in Brasil is outstanding if you go to the right places and can communicate just a little - and inexpensive. Tonight I ordered pork and with a little effort got it not over cooked. I got 4 pork cutlets, rice, potato, pumpkin, and the best eggplant I have ever had, and salad. Could only eat about half ……

I think there's an obsolete belief that good fish comes from the sea, so when in a vacation spot by the sea you are supposed to get lots of good fish. I've decided good fish comes from the kitchen. Even in this seashore town the fish has been pretty average, but the beef is outstanding.

Dark skinned folks are called "moreno" here by each other, but it's not OK for a light skinned person to call them that. A large fraction of the latter, all that I have met, are Italian.

Wednesday Feb. 4, 04

Raining this morning. Hotel Luzieros looks like a nice place in a great location - check it out. They are in a good location and have outdoor balconies, though we have great view, we have no balcony to sit outside - maybe you don't want one when the wind blows.

Thursday Feb. 5, 04

Couple hours of rain in the early morning, then a nice day. Getting in a good swim every day. Swam from the Otheon Palace past the Luzieros to the Quality Fortaleza this evening - very big surf. Every evening about 5 pm folks wheel these 3' x 3' x 5' steel boxes on two wheels down to the beach - store-in-a-box, hundreds of em. There selling all kinds of lace and leather, and many other things a couple cuts above Mexican vender stuff.

Friday Feb. 6, 04

Saw the turnip truck come by this morning, except it had coconuts. No wonder these second world countries are lagging. Imagine the inefficiency of using a 5 lb coconut to transport 6 oz of water. Unlike Bush though, they are better at creating "jobs." One business the men (homem) are in requires investment only in a small blue towel. Then when anyone parks a car you walk by closely, and when you see someone removing the car you come by waving the towel and the person removing the car gives you $R1 for not stealing it while they were away.

By now we have eaten at all the good restaurants, La Marea, Portugal, El Gaucho, A Tasca do Margues, Portofino, and are beginning to repeat.

Saturday Feb. 7, 04

Went up to Cumbuco Beach again today. Spent an hour with Manfred, the German who rents a little windsurf equipment. He has 2 or 3 apartments he rents to windsurfers. Showed him www.iWindsurf.com on the web. Had an hour conversation with one of his current guests, a young lawyer from Hamburg Germany who is kiting at Cumbuco since not enough wind for anything else. Also found a very nice hotel just across the street for Manfred, Eco Paradise Hotel. $R220/day double with breakfast - add all meals for $R18. Very nice, right on the beach - got pictures. Discovered the car rental, Avis, gave us a Sao Paulo map, no wonder we been lost all week. Went to dinner and discovered the new cultural center and "Dragon do Mar" restaurant. There were seven 3 minute torrential down pours separated by 30 - 45 minutes each. Everyone just steps inside for 3 min, and the rain is warm. Of the two weeks here only about three days have been rainy in daylight hours, but many evenings we have these showers. Rain is not a problem - no wind is a problem! Next time come no later than December. Ask me about the silver boys.

Monday Feb. 9, 04

It is 4 am, I drove to the airport and went through several red lights, including the one Antonio informed me about. At one light there was a cop standing who seemed to pay no attention. At Antonio's light there was a Brasillian about to cross so you bet I wasn't going to stop - got to the airport and turned in the car without incident. Varig flight out of Sao Paulo was about an hour and half late as they repaired engine trouble. The LA Sao Paulo leg of this trip has been not bad as I got a roomy bulkhead seat both ways, this time two seats. Right now I think we are flying over the pantanal but I haven't been able to see it for clouds at present.

Brasil is a very "closed" country. Their goal is export everything, import nothing - one-sided "free trade." No BMWs or Mercedes here as the import tax is extremely high. They do have to import computers and similar high tech gear, and fortunately satellites from my company, but they also do export jet airplanes. The stated goal of some of my colleagues from Brasil was that they were just buying the first couple satellites until they learned how to build them, but it's taking a while!

Data from the literature:

April 2000 Windsurfer Magazine, p 16

April 2003 Windsurfer Magazine, p 38

Eric Sanford, who has been organizing paid trips to Jericoacoara (Jerri-kwa-kwa)for a couple years has written a couple articles. I think his trips are not cheap, $1700 plus air for all inclusive 10 - 14 days?? He describes several beaches between Fortaleza and Jeri that are good for windsurfing, Cumbuco, Taiba, Paracuru. Mundau, Icaraizinho. We got to Cumbuco only. In the 2000 article he says to rent gear at Wind Club. At Beira Mar 2120, in Fortaleza. We never found this place, though we walked and drove by this address, just a couple blocks from our hotel at 2340, many times. In the 2003 article he says rent from Club dos Ventos in Jeri - sounds a little like the same place moved to me! In the 2000 article he says the best wind is June through January at 25 - 30 knots! Two years later he has scaled this back to July to December. I knew we were pushing it, going in January, but didn’t really expect the total blowout we got.

Windsurfer Mag, Fall 2002, Travel Guide Page 63, says Season is Aug. to January (Don't believe the January part!)

Other Contacts:

Paul Pinarretta ppinarretta@stellarsolutions.com 650 473-9866; 818 554-2410 has relatives in Fortaleza and can help get acquainted with people and area.

Charles (Chet) Perkins Michael's friend from Ryan Air. Wife (Franczia?) from Fortaleza 858 455-1608 (h) 619 723-1163 (m)

Leonidas(Leo) Filho 310 391-6128 is an acquaintance from Cabrillo, says stay at his family's place about at Paracuru, 100 km north of Fortaleza, or he thinks one of the hotels at Cumbuco is a real good option if one wants to stay closer to Fortaleza.

Fernando de Noronha - Island paradise ~ 200 miles east of Fortaleza.

Florianopolis windsurfing

http://www.brazilsurftravel.com/packages/floripa_superior_wind.htm